Muhammad Ali Sadpara: 'Son of the Mountains' was a mountaineer who was immersed in blood
My father (Muhammad Ali Sadpara) was a mountain of courage. Before going on any mountaineering expedition, my mother and I would smile and reassure ourselves that everything would be alright. He used to say that you people should not be upset but should face every situation. That's what he told us before he went on the K2 campaign. "
Ali Sadpara's son Mazahir Hussain started his speech by sharing his father's memories with the BBC.
Sadpara went on a winter expedition to climb the world's second-highest peak, K2, along with Icelandic mountaineer John Sunori as a porter. He is accompanied by young Pablo Moher from Chile.
The last contact with the three climbers was about two weeks ago, on February 5. The rescue operation to find them has been suspended from February 15 due to inclement weather and other reasons. No trace of the three climbers has been found in rescue missions so far.
Mazahir Hussain said, "We always saw our father laughing and smiling. He was in love with the mountains and mountaineering was his obsession. He always told me that fun is when you get an education and do something.
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K2: What accident must have happened to the missing climbers, what is happening in the search mission?
Why did Ali Sadpara have to go as a porter to fulfill his long dream?
What is K2's 'death zone' and how many hours can a climber live there?
How are climbers' claims to the summit confirmed?
Ali Sadpara, 45, has the honor of climbing the world's highest peak, Nanga Parbat, in winter. Due to his expertise in mountaineering, he gained national and international fame.
According to Mazahir, his father would often tell his children, "Look how many of my friends and colleagues have fallen victim to this dangerous sport (mountaineering)." In fact, they wanted us to get a good education first, then to pursue a passion for mountaineering. My father believed that if we get a good education, it will help us to perform better in mountaineering.
But Mazahir Hussain says "maybe mountaineering is in our blood."
According to Mazahir, he agreed to his father's education and focused on his studies. "But my elder brother Sajid Sadpara is just like Abu. He continued to climb, which resulted in Abu taking him on every expedition.
Father-son 'last meeting' at 8,000 meters
Mazahir Hussain says that his uncles have spoken to Sajid Sadpara. Sajid Sadpara said that "Sajid Sadpara felt the need for oxygen at the bottleneck just above the height of 8,000 meters but the regulator of his oxygen cylinder had broken down."
On this occasion, Muhammad Ali Sadpara directed Sajid Sadpara to return. Abu told Sajid that he could not go further without the regulator. Sajid did not discuss this at this critical juncture because at that time he thought there was only a short distance left to achieve historic success.
"Sajid told my uncles that when he was coming down, Abu hugged him very emotionally," says Mazahir. Then instructed to go carefully. Take care, we'll be back soon. "
"When Sajid was coming down, Abu had been watching him coming down for a long time."
"Perhaps Abu's sixth sense preceded him by a sudden calamity," he said. He sent Sajid back against his will.
A few days ago, while talking to the media in Skardu, Sajid Sadpara had said that when he came back to Camp III, he had kept the lights on all night and when the team returned, he would make them tea. They didn't have to come, they didn't come.
Sajid Sadpara has already said that the search for his father should now continue as a search for his body.
'Three dollars for lifting 25 kg'
Ali Mohammad is a close friend and colleague of Mohammad Ali Sadpara. The two started mountaineering together, but now Ali Mohammad has said goodbye to the world of mountaineering and runs his own tour operating agency.
He said that the economic situation of Muhammad Ali Sadpara was not so good in the beginning. He worked tirelessly and struggled to reach this place.
He started his career as a high-altitude porter. They became porters who would go up with the climbers and help them climb the mountain and carry their luggage.
He recalls that "Porter Sadpara used to work very hard and honestly and as a porter, he started learning mountaineering."
"After mastering mountaineering for a short period of time, he not only started mountaineering privately but also worked as a fixer for climbers."
According to Ali Muhammad, Ali Sadpara was instrumental in the historic and successful expeditions of many of the world's greatest mountaineers. Ali Sadpara used to tie ropes on the difficult mountain paths for the climbers with the help of which the climbers would be able to reach the peaks.
"Ali created his own world," says Rafiq Aziz Sadpara, a friend of Ali Sadpara in Rawalpindi.
"As a child, he farmed and tended cattle," he says. When he started working as a porter after marriage, he used to earn three dollars a day for carrying 25 kg of foreign mountaineering equipment.
"Working with climbers is also an art," he says. This art is almost like mountaineering. Muhammad Ali Sadpara had learned this job very soon.
'Best Pakistani Climber of the Century'
Muhammad Ali Sadpara
, Photo source MUZAHIR SADPARA
, Photo caption
Ali Sadpara with his son Mazahir
The first major change in Muhammad Ali Sadpara's life was to serve as a porter for the Pakistan Army to deliver equipment to Siachen.
His son Mazahir Hussain said, "Abu always used to tell us to do whatever we do with hard work, enthusiasm, and passion, then it is not possible to fail."
"He used to tell us that he had worked as a porter for many years due to lack of mountaineering resources."
Ali Mohammad said that Mohammad Ali Sadpara was the 'son of the mountains'. "Mountains and mountaineering were in his blood. So even though they didn't get much help, they were quick to succeed.
"I think Ali was the best climber of the last century. Maybe no one else will be born in Pakistan again. If Muhammad Ali Sadpara had the resources, the number of his deeds and records would be many times more than it is now.
He asserted that his confession had been obtained through torture and that his confession had been obtained through torture.
He has been a fixer for many climbers on many of the world's most dangerous peaks. If they had the resources, they would have climbed these peaks on their own. There are probably so many victories on his record that no one could get close to him.
Ali Muhammad claims that Muhammad Ali Sadpara was perhaps the only climber in history to lead every expedition without oxygen. "It simply came to our notice then. Only Ali could do that. "
"I think in the future, people will do research on Muhammad Ali Sadpara."
'Helping others in the face of death'
Mountaineer
Ali Mohammad, a friend of Sadpara, said that Ali Sadpara had a simple temperament and a sincere personality.
There was humility in them. During many campaigns, we saw them sacrificing for their comrades. Everyone has to do their own thing during the campaigns. But most of the time Muhammad Ali Sadpara did his job and also helped others.
There will be many climbers around the world, including me, who will never forget the taste and flavor of Muhammad Ali Sadpara's hand-made tea and coffee. He used to help others even in the face of death.
"In many campaigns, we have seen that even if Ali was not the leader of the team, his role would have been the same as that of a leader. His role has always been central. They would pave the way for others, tie ropes and help in other ways.
Ali Sadpara used to help in removing dangerous obstacles. There are many climbers who have survived a dangerous accident. But when they had a hard time, no one could help them.
Aziz says that as a porter, Ali Sadpara's first teacher was his uncle Hassan Sadpara. Once he was helping climbers with him when his special spring fell. Muhammad Ali Sadpara was young. He did not know but his uncle had put the glass in his pocket.
"It simply came to our notice then. When the sun and the glare of the glacier blurred his eyes, Hassan Sadpara handed the spring to his young nephew and said that even a small mistake in the mountains becomes a big mistake. So be careful. "
Ali said that Sadpara was a brave but very careful climber.
He was disappointed in 2015 when he failed to climb the Nanga Parbat with his foreign climbers in the most unfavorable conditions during a winter expedition. But he was determined to do it again and sooner. According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, work is underway to improve mountaineering laws and regulations in the country. According to Gilgit-Baltistan government spokesman Imtiaz Ali Taj, the government of Gilgit-Baltistan is striving for the development of all types of tourism in the region and in this regard should contact the people associated with the industry and legislate within its legal limits. Will
He said that an institute for international level mountaineering training would be set up in Gilgit-Baltistan soon. In which the welfare and training of mountaineering people became the first priority. For which preparations have been started.
He said that besides this, efforts were being made to develop a mechanism as a result of which direct campaigns could be launched in Pakistan and Gilgit-Baltistan.
Referring to several misleading and trivial news on social media about the missing climbers, Gilgit-Baltistan government spokesman Imtiaz Ali Taj said, “So far no concrete evidence has been found regarding Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his associates. The data collected from the search operation so far is being reviewed. There is a lot of misleading news being spread on social media right now which is causing heartache and problems to the families of the missing climbers.
He further said that if there is any information regarding the missing climbers, the families of the missing climbers besides Gilgit-Baltistan and the federal government will provide the information themselves. People should not believe in false and misleading news and those who spread such news should be discouraged.
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